Fabricista Challenge #2- It's All About the Fit!

9/19/14-Update.  I won this challenge!   Thank you all so much for your encouragement and support.  My competition had some really great garments, so I feel very fortunate to have eeked out a win.  
I'm so excited to try my prize- 3 Pamela's Patterns!
And when I told my husband that I'd won, he said- "I guess we'll have to upgrade our anniversary dinner to Burger King." LOL!

Our 2nd challenge for the Fabric Mart Fabricista Challenge was to make a well-fitting garment out of solid color fabric.  We could make anything that we wanted to and use any pattern this time round! 

My 28^th wedding anniversary is coming up, so for this challenge I decided to make a special occasion dress.   My husband’s favorite color is purple, and our bridesmaids wore eggplant gowns, so I grabbed this eggplant satin as a nod to both of those things. 

The pattern, Vogue 1118, has an asymmetrical bodice and curved skirt seams, lining, side zipper and back vent.  This is a Tracy Reese design that is now out of print.  I often have contemplated making it, but I knew it was going to be a fitting nightmare, so I always put it back in the box.  This challenge was just what I needed to give me the kick in the pants to try it!

Of the 16 pieces in the pattern, I altered 14 of them!    It took me one entire evening just to do the alterations.  I kid you not.  I could have sewed up a few knit tops in the time it took just to alter this baby!

The full bust adjustment was particularly tricky since one side has a dart, and the other has pleats.   I had to reduce the neckline a bit because it was gaping in my muslin.

 To add length for my height, I increased the length mid-skirt across 6 pattern pieces, truing up the curves, piece by piece.

But that’s not all!   

This summer, I found out that I have scoliosis- which means that my spine curves to one side.   I don't usually look at my backside, so I had no idea that I had this condition, but it explains why I usually have one bra strap falling down, and why sometimes my hemlines are a little wonky.  I always just attributed that to cutting while drinking wine, but turns out, it was probably the scoliosis all along!

I knew that I would have extra fabric at the left waist, so I took a 1" wedge out above the waist on the left side, and then added it back in below the waist to the pattern.  This wasn't enough- as you can see from the photos below- I still had multiple folds across the left.  I had my daughter pin out the excess, and then I worked that into a seam. 

The shoulder area of the design is also asymmetrical, so it is hard to tell what asymmetry is me and what is the design!

Working with satin was quite maddening interesting.   If you rip out a stitch or have a lump or bump, it shows.  If you drop of water drips from the iron, it will show permanently, so always iron on the wrong side, unless you are using a dry iron.  (I learned this from doing prom dresses for my daughters).  I alternated the matte and shiny sides to accentuate the design lines of the dress.   

With all of the fitting and fabric challenges, this tested my abilities to the max.  Lest you think I did not sweat this one, this project took me 2-1/2 days between the alterations, cutting and sewing.  I didn't even take a break to go to the fabric store.  I sent my husband to pick up the invisible zipper, where he got in an argument with a staff member that told him there were no invsible zippers.  He found them on his own, and then showed the staff member.  LOL!!!

 I learned that I have a lot to learn!  My friend and I are going to make duct tape dummies which should help me figure out what alterations I need to do for the scoliosis adjustments.  My dress form is just too symmetrical!

 I’m going to love wearing this dress.  It’s fitted, but comfortable.  Classy, but unique.  Sexy, but age appropriate.  Perfect  to celebrate 28 years of marriage!  My husband's comment, "Aren't you going to be a little overdressed for McDonalds?"  Husbands....(shaking head).

Please head on over to the Fabric Mart Blog to vote!  And if you do vote for me, thank you, thank you, thank you!!

Happy Sewing!

Ann