A few years ago, I did have a very posh set of coordinating polished cotton pajamas and a robe. I paid big bucks for it, but wore it until the fabric had holes and the print had completely faded. So, with that in mind, I set out to recreate something similar.
The first step was the robe. Since I wanted this to be summer weight, I needed a pattern that was designed for woven fabric- a knit or fleece robe would be too hot. Enter Kwik Sew 3644.
I know that Kwik Sew patterns are more expensive than the other Big 4 brands, but let me tell you- I was really glad that I chose this pattern. The way that it applied piping was completely different than I would have done without their instructions. And it turned out great. Piping and I are not friends. But this time, we were compatible, and I will credit Kwik Sew for that.
I had selected three blue coordinating cotton voiles from Fabric Mart for this set. Cotton voile is super light weight- I even had to adjust the tension on my machine because it is so light that the regular tension wouldn't hold it down. I read that if you have a roller foot, that you should use it when sewing voile. I don't, but once I adjusted the tension, it sewed like a dream.
The pattern has a
contrasting facing, pocket bands, and sleeve bands. Since this was my largest piece of the set, I
used the largest print, which was a blue background with a cream and brown
paisley design. For the contrast, I
used a blue and brown striped voile, as I thought the stripe would balance the
very ornate paisley. I used a bronze
colored flat piping to bring out the browns in the print.
The second step was the pajamas. I have to say that I am not usually a ruffles kind of person, but when I saw Butterick 6225, I just fell in love with it.
It has so many interesting details- small pleats on the front, a shaped front hem, and the ruffles around the neck and armholes. So cute, and so much work! About half way through, I realized why I don't have many tops with ruffles. I just don't have the patience. But, when I go back to my formula of how many hours a day I wear my pajamas, versus how many hours it took me to sew the ruffles, then it seemed like a pretty fair trade-off.
I used a medium sized blue floral print for the main body,
and cut the facing and ruffles from the blue striped voile. I have to say that I think this top could very well be worn anytime of day.
I cut the ruffles on the bias to give them an
interesting angle on the shirt. I tried
it on, and it slipped over my head easily, so I opted to just sew the buttons
through all layers, rather than making buttonholes. I want this to last a long time, and I figure
that I am less likely to lose a button if they are just decorative and not
functional.
To make the ruffled trim, you first need to do a baby hem on
one side of the ruffle piece, then gather the other side. Baste the trim to the garment edge, and then
sew a strip of bias tape over the ruffle.
Turn the bias tape to the wrong side, and finally stitch it in place. You can use purchased bias tape for this
step, but I had enough fabric to make my own, so I cut 1-1/4” bias strips from
the blue stripe.
Because this has a shaped hem, the facing on this top was
extra wide.
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Inside view of top to show the bias tape finishing around armhole edge. |
I used the blue/brown stripe
fabric for my front facings as well. The
facings are interfaced, so it is really important to use a featherweight
interfacing, or else this could get too heavy. For the shorts, I used the blue stripe again. The shorts are just the standard elastic
waist pull-on pants type.
I find that
these patterns always run too long in the front crotch, so I fold out 2” off the
top of the center front, and then blend that to 1” at the sides, and then to zero at the center back. I also added a couple of inches to the
length. I still had lots of fabric left over, so I made a little
headband out of the remnants using a 10” piece of fold over elastic and a
shaped double layer of fabric.
This will be a great set for traveling, because it is so lightweight. And if anyone sees me getting the newspaper in the morning in my pj's, I won't be quite as embarrassed as if I was just wearing my typical raggedy t-shirt and shorts.
Happy Sewing!
Ann