Lantern Sleeve Coat using Burda 03-2019-101

When Hancock fabrics was closing a few years ago, I bought this black coated denim fabric.  I always had a raincoat in mind to make with it, but since I have a couple of other trench coats, I didn't want a trench coat style pattern.  I saw this coat pattern in the March 2019 issue of Burda magazine, and could envision the lantern sleeves done in the coated denim, so it was a match!  I also really liked the pocket style which is an integrated welt into a princess seam. 

Working with this fabric was harder than I expected- it was just really stiff and uncooperative.  Especially when it came to trying to gather the sleeve flounce and the sleeve head.  I did the standard running two rows of basting stitching, but the threads broke before I could get it even halfway gathered.  I had read about using dental floss in the middle of a row of zigzag stitching as an option for hard to gather fabrics, and gave that a try.  Here's the before:

And after pulling the dental floss, it looks like this:

I wouldn't say that it was ideal- the dental floss that I had was very slippery, and the gathers kept coming undone, so maybe an old style dental floss that isn't coated would be better.  But, it got the job done!

Here's the back view, showing the center back seam and upper yoke.  It is fully lined as well.  As far as the pattern sizing goes, I made a size 42 at the neck and shoulders, and a 44 everywhere else.  I did a full bust adjustment, but don't think I needed to, as I ended up taking out some of the fullness.  I think Burda drafts coats with more ease than the US companies usually do.  Mine isn't as long on me, as the model's is on her.  I wish that I had added a couple of inches to the bottom. 

The buttons are huge- 1-3/8"- actually a little bit bigger than my machine will make buttonholes for, so it's a tight fit. They are Milly buttons that Fabric Mart is carrying now.  

I tried it with shoulder pads, but the fabric kind of holds itself up, so I took them out.  I thought about adding a hood, but decided against it.  I'll just have to remember my umbrella!  I really like the style, and will probably make it again, if nothing else, to make it worth the time spent tracing and altering the pattern!

I also made a new tablecloth to spruce up my dining room.  This was a Amy Butler design in a twill weave.  I had other plans for it originally, but I will get a lot of enjoyment out of it seeing on the table everyday!

Stay healthy and happy sewing!



  1. You made a nice coat! I have never heard of using dental dloss for gathering and will file that away in my mind. Such a great tip!

  2. Great looking coat. And good idea to get that fun Amy Butler fabric out to bring some cheer.


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