I, like many, don't fit into a standard single size pattern, and with the Big 4 patterns, I have so many adjustments to do, that sometimes it's just too much trouble- especially if it's a simple design. Typically, I have a full bust adjustment, rounded back adjustment, narrow shoulder adjustment, narrow chest adjustment, and length adjustments. You would think that I was a terribly oddly shaped human being based on all of the adjustments I have to make to get a pattern to fit! However, I can usually wear the Burda plus 44 without hardly any adjustments- maybe just narrowing the shoulders a bit and adding a little length. That is a breath of fresh air!
This is the knit shirt pattern #406. It looks like a pretty standard shirt right? Until you look at the shoulder, and see it's got a little pleat there. These are the kind of details that just make me giddy with delight. Amazingly, the French version has illustrations for construction for all views, so they had a nice little illustration set that explained how to do this cute little pleat. I've never seen complete illustrated instructions for every view in a magazine issue, except for the Burda Easy, so I wonder if this is new for Burda Plus, of if they've always been there in the German and French issues. Let me know if you've bought one of the German or French versions prior to this one. The instructions are in French, and I do speak a little French, but mostly I relied on the illustrations.
This top is from a rayon knit, and I also made another from an ITY knit.
I really like the pleat in the stripe. Super cool look! This is my current favorite t-shirt. I am certain I will make more!
The blouson dress (#408) has a draped neckline, and is finished with elastic around the waistband, so you can skip the belt if you want. The instruction guide suggested that you needed 3-3/8 yards for this, which must have been a typo. I had 1-5/8 yards of this ITY knit and I was able to fit the pieces on it. This pattern starts at a 46, so to make it a 44, I just traced inside the 46 line with the same distance that was between the 46 and 48.
This version is from a silk jersey with a border print. I made it a tad longer than my first version of the dress. I'm 5 feet 9 for reference, and only added an inch or so. The direction of the stretch was with the stripes going vertically, but I didn't want to have that for the full dress, so I cut the bodice with the stripes going horizontally. This jersey was super lightweight and little sheer, so I lined the skirt part with an athletic knit. I have read that Sandra Betzina recommends this type of knit for slips, and this is my first time trying it. Apparently it's more breathable. Here is it from the inside:
For the elastic casing, I trimmed the jersey layers to reduce bulk, and stitched the lining layer down to form the casing. The skirt lining was additional- the pattern didn't call for any lining, and if your knit isn't sheer, you shouldn't need one. I just felt more comfortable adding it to this version because of the sheerness.
Here are the rest of the items in this issue. I am making myself a new challenge- I want to make every style in this issue. So, you heard it here first! It may take me a while, but I have 406 and 407 checked off. Next, I think I'll try one of the pants.
Oh, and an update on the Caftan that I had made a couple of weeks ago. A friend had asked me to make one for her daughter-in-law. She picked out a cotton batik with a turtle print. I wasn't sure how the heavier fabric would work, but it turned out fine. I added pockets because I thought a young Mom would need a place to put her phone and keys.
Here it is on me:
I had enough fabric to make one for her two year old granddaughter too:
And even some matching face masks, just for good measure!
Take care,
Ann
I know exactly what you mean about having to make multiple fit adjustments. I abandoned the Willis shirt because of that reason! I didn't know you had to make that many adjustments for the Big 4 patterns, so I can see why you love the Burda Plus patterns.
ReplyDeleteEverything you made looks wonderful! I love little details too, and that pleat is awesome. I also love that you are making all of the views! I am sure the results will be fabulous.
I took a fitting class once, when I was young and much more standard size, and found out it took FOURTEEN adjustments to get a Vogue pattern to fit me. Luckily I had time to do a Burda block, and there I needed one. Went home and did a big cleanup..
ReplyDeleteThe French plus size Burdas didn't use to get directions for every style, although it's been 5 years since I scored one.
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