Sewing Classes and Lessons

Monday, March 23, 2015

Vogue 8379 in a Striped Silk Jersey

Hello everyone and happy Spring!

This is the first time that I've taken photos outdoors since October.  It feels so nice to be outside again!  To celebrate the long awaited arrival of Spring, I just had to make a new dress.  One of the most versatile dresses that I think you can own is a wrap dress.  They work for all seasons- just throw on a jacket or cardigan in the winter, and you can make a wrap dress work all year long.  So for this time of year where the temperature is up one day and down the next, a wrap dress is perfect.


The wrap dress was made popular by Diane Von Furstenberg in the 70's.  Have you ever seen a real DVF Wrap dress?  If you go to the Wrap Shop you can see that the average price is $400, and all of the gorgeous variations that they offer.  The one thing that I noticed that they all have in common, is that they are made from silk jersey.

I actually tried on an authentic DVF wrap dress once, and found out what silk jersey really feels like.  It's a lot like an ITY jersey in feel, but it has a lot less stretch. The colors in silk always seem to be richer, and that makes the DVF dresses look so much more vibrant than others.  I really had my heart set on making a wrap dress from a real silk jersey, and as usual, FabricMart had the perfect fabric- a striped silk jersey in my favorite colors (see below for a close-up).  Looks a lot like my blog background, don't you agree?



My favorite pattern for this style is Vogue 8379.  I've taught a class using it before, and amazingly, every size and shape looked great in it!  I did have to make adjustments to the pattern.  I did a full bust adjustment, a full biceps adjustment, and added length to the skirt.  But after my adjustments, I got a much better fit than I could ever have gotten buying an authentic DVF wrap dress. The McCall Pattern company blog is currently running a Wrap Dress Sewalong with some great information about fitting this particular style.



Since my fabric was striped, I had visions of trying to match the stripes in a chevron effect at all of the seams.  But when I got it, I saw that the stripes were quite curved.  So instead of trying to match the stripes at the seams, I decided to just try to play around with the direction of the stripes.  Here's what my fabric looked like on the cutting table:



Since the bodice and sleeves are fitted closely, I decided to lay the back bodice and sleeves in the direction of the maximum stretch- which was horizontally.  I oriented the front bodice so that the stripes would line up with the direction of the wrap- almost a 45 degree angle.  The skirt was a challenge.  I omitted the seam in the back, and cut it all in a single layer with the stripes at a slight angle.   Then I tried to match the sides in whatever direction the stripes were going in.  It didn't turn out perfect, but I'm pretty happy with it.  It has a kind of ice cream swirl effect.



Lastly, I cut the tie and facings with the stripes going horizontally. My front facing does turn out (even though it's not supposed to!), but it looks intentional with the horizontal facing.


Of course, you do need to pay attention to the skirt when you are sitting, but there is plenty of overlap so that you can stay covered up.  And if it is a windy day, well, you might just want to wear another dress!


 Have you made a wrap dress?   What is your favorite wrap dress pattern and fabric?

Here is the picture of the Bodice front after I did a Full Bust adjustment:



Happy Sewing!

Ann

15 comments:

  1. Great looking wrap dress. I couldn't agree with you more regarding the versatility of it. Your use of the striped fabric is fresh.

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  2. Beautiful wrap dress and lovely outdoor photos

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  3. Very nice dress - looks great on you. Love the fabric you choose.

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  4. Pretty, springy fabric & the fit is great!

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  5. I absolutely love this dress! I have the same Vogue pattern and it is by far the best pattern I have purchased and stitched up in a long time. I love the colors in the fabric and how it drapes. You look stunning as always.

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  6. Ann, your dress looks great, beautiful fabric and the length, in my opinion, is perfect! I saw your review on Pattern Review and followed you here to your blog-which I have now bookmarked :)

    I’ve been inspired by the McCall's sew along that you mentioned and have been searching for some insight on an FBA for a dress like this. I understand how to do a FBA using a woven fabric with a pattern that has a waist dart but I am stumped trying to figure out how to make the adjustment on a pattern that doesn’t have a waist dart - and with this pattern having pleats…I’m just really puzzled. . I can’t figure out how to increase the bust allowance and have the bodice fit together with skirt.

    I know it’s asking a lot, I’m sure you’re very busy and I completely understand if you don’t have the time but I was wondering if you could possibly explain how you did your FBA? I’d appreciate it so much if you could explain your method. Thank you.

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    1. Hi Victoria,
      I'm not sure that I can explain it, but I can show you a photo. I'll upload a photo to the end of the post so that you can see what my final bodice piece looks like. I basically slashed and spread from the shoulder to the waist, then also slashed and spread from the center of this slash to the side and front edges. Then I rotated some of the width to the pleat area. Remember to also lengthen your facing when you do this. Hope that helps!

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    2. Hi Ann, Thank you for posting the photo of your FBA, that helps so much. I thought something had to be shifted to the pleats but I just couldn't "wrap" my head around it-I couldn't resist the pun :) I really appreciate your help, thanks!

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