Sunday, September 4, 2016

McCalls 7242 Laura Ashley Peasant Dress


I came of age in the 70's, and the Peasant Dress style made popular by Laura Ashley and Gunne Sax are near and dear to my heart!  I knew that it would just be a matter of time until they came back, and recently McCalls patterns introduced a Laura Ashley design with 7242.  They say that you shouldn't wear a trend if you wore it the first time round, but I thought I'd give it a try, and see how I felt in one before abiding by that rule!

The pattern has several different views, and I originally thought that I would make the short dress, but when I actually tried it on, it was screaming for the ruffle, so I added it at the last minute.  I didn't have quite enough fabric to make the full width of the ruffle, so mine is about 8", instead of 12" wide as the pattern is designed.  I also serge finished the ruffle hem instead of narrow hemming to save time and keep the ruffle as long as possible.




I wanted to make it with a true 70's vibe which meant soft flowy fabric in earthy or muted colors.
Fabric Mart had a challis that was just perfect for it with a Muted Teal and Fiery Orange Rayon Challis.


I haven't worked with challis for a while, because it is one of those fabrics that has a mind of it's own.  You know the kind- you can cut it absolutely on the pattern lines, and then you turn around, and it's completely shape shifted into a different piece!  It is however, incredibly soft and has the most beautiful drape, so if you can be patient with it, you will be rewarded.





I actually had quite a time with this one because it ended up being way too big.  Then when I went to check the pattern pieces to see where I went wrong, I found out that the pieces had really grown quite a bit- for example the yoke piece was a full 1" wider than the pattern piece on each shoulder.  I had to take up the collar, shoulders, sleeves and the sides- I almost felt like I was resewing a second dress.   Lesson learned- when working with challis, make sure to check pieces against the pattern before you sew, as they might have relaxed and grown larger since you cut them.


I could tell that the dress was going to slip easily over my head, so I skipped the buttonholes, and just sewed the buttons through all layers.


I'm accenting it with cognac leather boots, belt and purse that I was quite lucky and found all of them at a consignment shop in town.  If I sew something myself, I don't feel guilty about finding the perfect accessories for it, especially when I can find them second hand!

Do you remember Peasant Dresses from their first incarnation?  And if yes, would you wear one today?

Happy Sewing!

Ann

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

Updated Amazing Ottobre Woman Magazine Index


It's time to start stalking the mailbox because the newest issue of the Finnish pattern magazine Ottobre Woman is due to arrive any day now!  It looks to be a great issue by the photos.



 Here are the line drawings for this issue:


 I really like this skirt and pullover combo:

And this hooded cardigan is gorgeous!


 A pretty knit wrap dress:



 A luxe color blocked coat:



And another knit cardigan/basic dress combo that is stunning in teal:




Back to the title of this post!  Alice Hall of Abilene, Texas has compiled all of the line drawings from 2006-2016 into an index by specific garment type, sleeve length and even knit and non-knit.  Here's an example of the coat section, so if you want to make a coat, you can compare all of the styles available over the last decade!  And this is done for every category-tops,dresses, skirts, pants, etc.



Isn't that cool?  Here is a link to Alice's Powerpoint file: Ottobre Woman 2016-2016 index
If you don't have all ten years, you can edit the powerpoint file and include only the ones that you have.   And if you don't have powerpoint, here it is in PDF format: Ottobre Woman 2016-2016 PDF.

Thanks, Alice!!!  Alice doesn't have her own blog yet, so if you'd like to thank her, just leave a comment here, and she can see it. 


And if you aren't a subscriber to Ottobre Woman, you can order here:  http://ottobredesign.fi/
The magazines are in English and usually just take a couple of weeks to arrive.

Happy Sewing!

Ann

Thursday, July 14, 2016

Sedona Sunset Early Fall Capsule


I found this stunning striped silk jersey at Fashion Fabrics Club last month, and it has inspired me to start working on an early fall wardrobe capsule.  We have some friends who live in Sedona, Arizona, and this reminded me so much of the colors there, that I'm calling it my "Sedona Sunset" SWAP.  (SWAP stands for Sewing With A Plan.)  Not everything will be worn together, but it helps me set a general direction of where I want to go.  I love the planning process.

I have 6 yards of it, which should be enough to get at least 2 pieces, maybe three out of it just by itself, so it is definitely my centerpiece.  However, it is a narrow width, as silk jerseys often are.   I know that I for certain want to make a wrap style dress out of it.  Hopefully, I'll have enough left over for a sleeveless top or straight skirt.

I also had two sandwashed silks- a blue and a tomato red.  I've got about 5 yards of the blue, but just 2 of the red. Both will probably be tunic style tops, maybe some track type pants out of the blue if I can squeeze it out of what I've got left.



I got a coral linen/rayon sweater knit and a royal blue linen knit at the same time I bought the silk.  I've got about 3 yards to work with of the coral, and just one yard of the blue, so the coral will probably be a long cardigan and shell, and the blue a sleeveless top.



All of these are top or dress weight, and I needed something that I could pull in for skirts or pants. From my stash, I have 1 yard of a nice printed sateen with the same color palette for a skirt, and then  2 yards of a stretch dark blue denim for some pants.   I have white pants and skirts that I will use as well.




And last, but not least!  I found a Isaac Mizrahi leather purse in coral as the icing on the cake.  I got it at our local thrift store for $20.  Buying it meant I was now committed to the plan!


Next step, preshrinking- even the silks.  I don't like drycleaning, so better to shrink it now, than later.
Then- picking out the patterns, always the hardest part!!!  I'm hoping to get 10 pieces done from these by Labor Day which is 6 weeks away.  I've definitely got my work cut out for me!

Have you started thinking about Fall sewing yet?

Happy Sewing!

Ann




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