Sunday, October 16, 2016

Sueded Scuba Skirt and Bell Sleeve Tunic


I've been really feeling the 70's vibe lately, and decided to continue with a suede skirt.  Not real suede though, but sueded scuba knit!  This is a huge improvement on real suede- very light weight, easy to sew and stretchy!


For the sueded scuba skirt, I used view C of Vogue 9154. This pattern is normally designed for woven fabrics, with a zipper and faced yoke.  However, all I did to adapt it to the scuba knit was add 1-1/2" at the top, and make an elastic casing, eliminating the zipper and facing.  The pattern said it needed 2-5/8 yds, but I was able to fit it on more like 1-1/4 yds, so I have a good size piece left over.


The suede finish is really luxurious.  Everyone that has felt it has gone "OOOHHHHhhhh!"   I got it from FabricMart, but they are sold out right now.  One really great thing about scuba knits is that they don't roll, and thus, you can leave them unhemmed.  Hems on knits are almost always a pain, and on a shaped hem like this skirt has, even more so.  Here's a close-up of the non-hem.  I think it looks nice, and I just dabbed a bit of fray-check on the threads at the bottom of the seams to make sure that they didn't come undone.




My top is a rayon challis that was in a Fabric Mart mystery bundle.  I used McCalls 7431 for it, cutting at top length instead of dress length, and omitting the ruffle on the sleeves for View C.


 I used a gold braided trim to highlight the seaming on the front.  I'm glad that I left off the ruffle.  I like the sleeves, but I have to tell you, now that I've worn it a couple of times- those wide sleeves tend to get caught on things- like doorknobs!  I've caught myself more than once, so I've decided that if you wear these kind of sleeves, you kind of need to reset your impression of how much space you need- kind of like cat whiskers.





Speaking of cats, I'll leave you with a photo of a black cat for Halloween.  I think he sees a mouse in the field and is very excited.



So, I still have 1-1/4 yds of the sueded scuba knit left.  Any suggestions on what I could make from it?  It's too nice to let be a scrap!

Happy Sewing!
Ann

Sunday, September 4, 2016

McCalls 7242 Laura Ashley Peasant Dress


I came of age in the 70's, and the Peasant Dress style made popular by Laura Ashley and Gunne Sax are near and dear to my heart!  I knew that it would just be a matter of time until they came back, and recently McCalls patterns introduced a Laura Ashley design with 7242.  They say that you shouldn't wear a trend if you wore it the first time round, but I thought I'd give it a try, and see how I felt in one before abiding by that rule!

The pattern has several different views, and I originally thought that I would make the short dress, but when I actually tried it on, it was screaming for the ruffle, so I added it at the last minute.  I didn't have quite enough fabric to make the full width of the ruffle, so mine is about 8", instead of 12" wide as the pattern is designed.  I also serge finished the ruffle hem instead of narrow hemming to save time and keep the ruffle as long as possible.




I wanted to make it with a true 70's vibe which meant soft flowy fabric in earthy or muted colors.
Fabric Mart had a challis that was just perfect for it with a Muted Teal and Fiery Orange Rayon Challis.


I haven't worked with challis for a while, because it is one of those fabrics that has a mind of it's own.  You know the kind- you can cut it absolutely on the pattern lines, and then you turn around, and it's completely shape shifted into a different piece!  It is however, incredibly soft and has the most beautiful drape, so if you can be patient with it, you will be rewarded.





I actually had quite a time with this one because it ended up being way too big.  Then when I went to check the pattern pieces to see where I went wrong, I found out that the pieces had really grown quite a bit- for example the yoke piece was a full 1" wider than the pattern piece on each shoulder.  I had to take up the collar, shoulders, sleeves and the sides- I almost felt like I was resewing a second dress.   Lesson learned- when working with challis, make sure to check pieces against the pattern before you sew, as they might have relaxed and grown larger since you cut them.


I could tell that the dress was going to slip easily over my head, so I skipped the buttonholes, and just sewed the buttons through all layers.


I'm accenting it with cognac leather boots, belt and purse that I was quite lucky and found all of them at a consignment shop in town.  If I sew something myself, I don't feel guilty about finding the perfect accessories for it, especially when I can find them second hand!

Do you remember Peasant Dresses from their first incarnation?  And if yes, would you wear one today?

Happy Sewing!

Ann

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

Updated Amazing Ottobre Woman Magazine Index


It's time to start stalking the mailbox because the newest issue of the Finnish pattern magazine Ottobre Woman is due to arrive any day now!  It looks to be a great issue by the photos.



 Here are the line drawings for this issue:


 I really like this skirt and pullover combo:

And this hooded cardigan is gorgeous!


 A pretty knit wrap dress:



 A luxe color blocked coat:



And another knit cardigan/basic dress combo that is stunning in teal:




Back to the title of this post!  Alice Hall of Abilene, Texas has compiled all of the line drawings from 2006-2016 into an index by specific garment type, sleeve length and even knit and non-knit.  Here's an example of the coat section, so if you want to make a coat, you can compare all of the styles available over the last decade!  And this is done for every category-tops,dresses, skirts, pants, etc.



Isn't that cool?  Here is a link to Alice's Powerpoint file: Ottobre Woman 2016-2016 index
If you don't have all ten years, you can edit the powerpoint file and include only the ones that you have.   And if you don't have powerpoint, here it is in PDF format: Ottobre Woman 2016-2016 PDF.

Thanks, Alice!!!  Alice doesn't have her own blog yet, so if you'd like to thank her, just leave a comment here, and she can see it. 


And if you aren't a subscriber to Ottobre Woman, you can order here:  http://ottobredesign.fi/
The magazines are in English and usually just take a couple of weeks to arrive.

Happy Sewing!

Ann
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