Sunday, March 16, 2014

Retro 70's Culotte Jumper pattern

I've been going through boxes of sewing stuff from my Mom's house, and in one of them I found this great pattern, Butterick 5139 from the mid 70's by designer Gil Aimbez:

I had a ton of jumpsuit type patterns, and culotte type patterns, but this one was the only one to combine both of these great 70's fashion genres!  Then as I went through another box, I found this:
I must have been about 13 or 14 when I made it.   Boy, was this a pain to put on.  I don't remember wearing it, but then again, there are a lot of 70's fashion moments that I've chosen to forget!  This is corduroy- another 70's love of mine. 
Look closely, and you can see the quilting detail on the bib part.  If only I can find a photo of me with my Farah Fawcett hairstyle, this memory would be complete!  Aw, I am so pining away for the good old days right now.  Does anyone else remember this one?

Happy Sewing!


Sunday, February 23, 2014

Butterick 6028 Katherine Tilton slouchy pants

I have generally stayed away from making pants because they are time consuming, and I can often get a better fit, and better fabric with ready to wear pants.  Pants are generally the supporting character in an outfit, so I put more attention into the tops.  However, I've been really excited by the trend that I've been seeing of printed pants, and the cover of this  Butterick 6028  had a really lovely fabric choice, so I thought that I'd give it a try.   

Important!  There is a pattern error with this pattern, so if you are making these, please read to the end to save yourself much frustration!

The fabric that I used is a canvas print by Marc Jacobs that had for quite some time.  It is a cross between an animal print, and a digital print.  The fabric quality if superb, and I like that it is in neutral shades, so I can pair it with any top that I want.

 Here are the neat things in this pattern:

1.  Elasticized back waist, faced front waist.
2.  Nice big pockets.  

3.  Side back piece curves around to the front ankle.  This isn't shown in the line drawing, but it's definitely a feature.

4.  Back seams for additional back interest.

5.  Loose through hip and thigh, tapering to slim ankles.  Very comfortable to wear and sit in.  This is my other kitty, FRED!

I found that this pants pattern has a significant construction error in it, but if you can get past that, you can get a pretty cool looking pair of pants!  The construction error involves the zipper in the front.  They give you instructions based on how you might typically make a pair of pants with a traditional waistband.  However, the pattern is for a faced waist, with no separate waistband.  It's not a huge deal to change this if you are experienced, but if you are a new sewer, it could really mess up the project.   What you need to do is put the zipper top about 2 inches below the top of the pant piece, then continue with the instructions for zipper insertion.  You'll need to shorten the zipper to make this work.  Otherwise you end up with bulky zipper teeth in the faced area where you want to put the hook and eyes. 

Also, I found that the facings are not the right length, so I would recommend adding an inch or so to the length of the facing piece, to give you that little bit extra that you'll need, especially on the left.

In addition to the change in the facings, here are the standard pants alterations that I make to fit me:
1.  Added 1-1/2" to leg length.
2.  Shortened front crotch length by 1-1/2"
3.  Lengthened back crotch length by 1-1/2".

The first fabrics recommended on the envelope are stretch twill or poplin.  However, these pants are loose fitting, so no stretch is required.  You can easily go down a size with this pattern to start with.  I know that the slouchy look isn't everyone's cup of tea, but I really like it!  I will certainly be making more of these, now that I have done this test run.  When I make them again, I'll jot down the instruction changes that I make to make construction go more smoothly.

Happy Sewing!


Thursday, February 20, 2014

Knit Tunics from Vogue 8962

Vogue 8962 is a wardrobe pattern that includes two tops, a pant and a skirt, all designed for knits! Most wardrobe patterns are for woven fabrics, not knits, so I was very excited to buy this when it was first released.
The top has the high low hem that is so popular right now, plus an interesting bias cut back that wraps around to the front to give the top some interesting lines.
The first one that I made was the cowl necked version out of a lightweight rayon knit.  You can see it is really long!  It's kind of hard to see the seamline in the print, but if you look closely, you can see it.

 Here you can see the back view with the separate yoke and the center back seam.

The next version is without the cowl, and is using a solid cream rayon/lycra knit.  I really love how the top drapes when you sit.  You can't see any muffin top, which is quite an accomplishment with a clingy knit.

 Here you can see the back a little better.  The neckline is just turned under and stitched- not a separate facing. It goes together extremely well. 

I  plan to try the skirt and the pants too as soon as I find a nice heavier weight knit to make them with.
I think this is a great style for taller women.  If you are shorter, I think it might be a little overwhelming at it's current length, so you might want to shorten it.  It would be fantastic out of a striped knit to showcase that curved bias back/side front piece as well.  Highly recommend this one!

Happy Sewing!


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