Sewing Classes and Lessons

Sunday, October 16, 2016

Sueded Scuba Skirt and Bell Sleeve Tunic


I've been really feeling the 70's vibe lately, and decided to continue with a suede skirt.  Not real suede though, but sueded scuba knit!  This is a huge improvement on real suede- very light weight, easy to sew and stretchy!


For the sueded scuba skirt, I used view C of Vogue 9154. This pattern is normally designed for woven fabrics, with a zipper and faced yoke.  However, all I did to adapt it to the scuba knit was add 1-1/2" at the top, and make an elastic casing, eliminating the zipper and facing.  The pattern said it needed 2-5/8 yds, but I was able to fit it on more like 1-1/4 yds, so I have a good size piece left over.


The suede finish is really luxurious.  Everyone that has felt it has gone "OOOHHHHhhhh!"   I got it from FabricMart, but they are sold out right now.  One really great thing about scuba knits is that they don't roll, and thus, you can leave them unhemmed.  Hems on knits are almost always a pain, and on a shaped hem like this skirt has, even more so.  Here's a close-up of the non-hem.  I think it looks nice, and I just dabbed a bit of fray-check on the threads at the bottom of the seams to make sure that they didn't come undone.




My top is a rayon challis that was in a Fabric Mart mystery bundle.  I used McCalls 7431 for it, cutting at top length instead of dress length, and omitting the ruffle on the sleeves for View C.


 I used a gold braided trim to highlight the seaming on the front.  I'm glad that I left off the ruffle.  I like the sleeves, but I have to tell you, now that I've worn it a couple of times- those wide sleeves tend to get caught on things- like doorknobs!  I've caught myself more than once, so I've decided that if you wear these kind of sleeves, you kind of need to reset your impression of how much space you need- kind of like cat whiskers.





Speaking of cats, I'll leave you with a photo of a black cat for Halloween.  I think he sees a mouse in the field and is very excited.



So, I still have 1-1/4 yds of the sueded scuba knit left.  Any suggestions on what I could make from it?  It's too nice to let be a scrap!

Happy Sewing!
Ann

Sunday, September 4, 2016

McCalls 7242 Laura Ashley Peasant Dress


I came of age in the 70's, and the Peasant Dress style made popular by Laura Ashley and Gunne Sax are near and dear to my heart!  I knew that it would just be a matter of time until they came back, and recently McCalls patterns introduced a Laura Ashley design with 7242.  They say that you shouldn't wear a trend if you wore it the first time round, but I thought I'd give it a try, and see how I felt in one before abiding by that rule!

The pattern has several different views, and I originally thought that I would make the short dress, but when I actually tried it on, it was screaming for the ruffle, so I added it at the last minute.  I didn't have quite enough fabric to make the full width of the ruffle, so mine is about 8", instead of 12" wide as the pattern is designed.  I also serge finished the ruffle hem instead of narrow hemming to save time and keep the ruffle as long as possible.




I wanted to make it with a true 70's vibe which meant soft flowy fabric in earthy or muted colors.
Fabric Mart had a challis that was just perfect for it with a Muted Teal and Fiery Orange Rayon Challis.


I haven't worked with challis for a while, because it is one of those fabrics that has a mind of it's own.  You know the kind- you can cut it absolutely on the pattern lines, and then you turn around, and it's completely shape shifted into a different piece!  It is however, incredibly soft and has the most beautiful drape, so if you can be patient with it, you will be rewarded.





I actually had quite a time with this one because it ended up being way too big.  Then when I went to check the pattern pieces to see where I went wrong, I found out that the pieces had really grown quite a bit- for example the yoke piece was a full 1" wider than the pattern piece on each shoulder.  I had to take up the collar, shoulders, sleeves and the sides- I almost felt like I was resewing a second dress.   Lesson learned- when working with challis, make sure to check pieces against the pattern before you sew, as they might have relaxed and grown larger since you cut them.


I could tell that the dress was going to slip easily over my head, so I skipped the buttonholes, and just sewed the buttons through all layers.


I'm accenting it with cognac leather boots, belt and purse that I was quite lucky and found all of them at a consignment shop in town.  If I sew something myself, I don't feel guilty about finding the perfect accessories for it, especially when I can find them second hand!

Do you remember Peasant Dresses from their first incarnation?  And if yes, would you wear one today?

Happy Sewing!

Ann

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

Updated Amazing Ottobre Woman Magazine Index


It's time to start stalking the mailbox because the newest issue of the Finnish pattern magazine Ottobre Woman is due to arrive any day now!  It looks to be a great issue by the photos.



 Here are the line drawings for this issue:


 I really like this skirt and pullover combo:

And this hooded cardigan is gorgeous!


 A pretty knit wrap dress:



 A luxe color blocked coat:



And another knit cardigan/basic dress combo that is stunning in teal:




Back to the title of this post!  Alice Hall of Abilene, Texas has compiled all of the line drawings from 2006-2016 into an index by specific garment type, sleeve length and even knit and non-knit.  Here's an example of the coat section, so if you want to make a coat, you can compare all of the styles available over the last decade!  And this is done for every category-tops,dresses, skirts, pants, etc.



Isn't that cool?  Here is a link to Alice's Powerpoint file: Ottobre Woman 2016-2016 index
If you don't have all ten years, you can edit the powerpoint file and include only the ones that you have.   And if you don't have powerpoint, here it is in PDF format: Ottobre Woman 2016-2016 PDF.

Thanks, Alice!!!  Alice doesn't have her own blog yet, so if you'd like to thank her, just leave a comment here, and she can see it. 


And if you aren't a subscriber to Ottobre Woman, you can order here:  http://ottobredesign.fi/
The magazines are in English and usually just take a couple of weeks to arrive.

Happy Sewing!

Ann

Thursday, July 14, 2016

Sedona Sunset Early Fall Capsule


I found this stunning striped silk jersey at Fashion Fabrics Club last month, and it has inspired me to start working on an early fall wardrobe capsule.  We have some friends who live in Sedona, Arizona, and this reminded me so much of the colors there, that I'm calling it my "Sedona Sunset" SWAP.  (SWAP stands for Sewing With A Plan.)  Not everything will be worn together, but it helps me set a general direction of where I want to go.  I love the planning process.

I have 6 yards of it, which should be enough to get at least 2 pieces, maybe three out of it just by itself, so it is definitely my centerpiece.  However, it is a narrow width, as silk jerseys often are.   I know that I for certain want to make a wrap style dress out of it.  Hopefully, I'll have enough left over for a sleeveless top or straight skirt.

I also had two sandwashed silks- a blue and a tomato red.  I've got about 5 yards of the blue, but just 2 of the red. Both will probably be tunic style tops, maybe some track type pants out of the blue if I can squeeze it out of what I've got left.



I got a coral linen/rayon sweater knit and a royal blue linen knit at the same time I bought the silk.  I've got about 3 yards to work with of the coral, and just one yard of the blue, so the coral will probably be a long cardigan and shell, and the blue a sleeveless top.



All of these are top or dress weight, and I needed something that I could pull in for skirts or pants. From my stash, I have 1 yard of a nice printed sateen with the same color palette for a skirt, and then  2 yards of a stretch dark blue denim for some pants.   I have white pants and skirts that I will use as well.




And last, but not least!  I found a Isaac Mizrahi leather purse in coral as the icing on the cake.  I got it at our local thrift store for $20.  Buying it meant I was now committed to the plan!


Next step, preshrinking- even the silks.  I don't like drycleaning, so better to shrink it now, than later.
Then- picking out the patterns, always the hardest part!!!  I'm hoping to get 10 pieces done from these by Labor Day which is 6 weeks away.  I've definitely got my work cut out for me!

Have you started thinking about Fall sewing yet?

Happy Sewing!

Ann




Monday, July 11, 2016

African Wax Print Dress


One of my daughter's best friends, Wen, went to Rwanda a couple of years ago, and brought back several beautiful pieces of fabric to give to us.  My daughter said that I could have one of them, so I chose the most subdued piece of the bunch which was this one.


I found the stickers interesting, and in researching African Wax Prints, I found that counterfeit fabrics are a problem, so that must be why it came with these markers. I had 3-1/2 yards of 44" wide fabric to work with.  It did have a very slight waxy coating on it, which washed off when I preshrunk it, but didn't effect the color in any way.  The remaining fabric was kind of a cross between a broadcloth and a canvas- lightweight, but crisp, with a slightly coarse texture.


I hung it on the dress form for a while trying to envision it in another form.  I went to the manufacturer's website and was surprised to see that the fabric actually was made in China.  Here is an excerpt from their About Us page:

"Our textile factory has a history of more than 10 years, and an area of 150,000 square meters. It has a personnel of 1,200 workers and employees, including some senior professional engineers. Our factory specializes in producing 100% cotton real wax, 100% cotton super wax, and 100%cotton kitenge, dyeing cloth, embroidery cloth etc… The majority of which are sold to underdeveloped regions, such as Africa. "
 
Wow!  Such a big factory- they must be producing a huge amount of fabric.  Very interesting!  Although they didn't have any examples of things that the fabric was made into, I had heard before about a company called Vlisco, which is a Dutch company, and went to their website. Oh boy- if you want to see some beautiful pictures, check out their fashion lookbook.  You can order all of these fabrics, and they are not too expensive, but you must order 6 yards at a time.  Here are some examples:




My quandry was how to make this fabric into something that would fit into my lifestyle.  I decided to make a simple dress that was work appropriate- I work in an elementary school, and although there is not an official dress code, I like to make sure that my shoulders are covered, and dresses are knee length.  I pulled out an out of print pattern Simplicity 4632 which checked all the right boxes.   I cut the shorter length, and tried to put the yellow flowers close to my face.


After making up the body and trying it on, I discovered that the fabric was just a little too coarse to wear without a lining.  I bought a lining bundle a few years ago from FabricMart that included 5 yards of this gold lining which never thought I would ever use- gold is just not in my color palette!  So, I was tickled pink to find something that it would work with!  I still have another 2 yards left, but hey, it just goes to show that if you wait long enough...!


The pattern didn't originally call for a lining, but I just cut another front and back, sewed them together, and then sewed the facing onto the lining. Here is is from the inside:

The entire armscye is encased in a bias binding, even though it has a cap sleeve.

And here it is from the back- there is a centerback seam which is nice for fitting.


Oh, and of course, I added pockets!


I'm really pleased with the end result- I think I'll get a lot of use out of this one.  Thanks, Wen, for bringing back this fabric with you!!!  My daughter who is in Madagascar is also on the lookout for some fabrics to bring back with her, so I'm looking forward to sewing more with this kind of fabric.

What about you- have you tried sewing with African wax print fabrics? 
 

Happy Sewing,
Ann

Thursday, July 7, 2016

Workout Outfits with Kwik Sew 4163 and 4181


If I loved working out as much as I love sewing, I would probably be a marathon runner!  But alas, I do not, and even though working out is always on my to do list, it hasn't made it to the top of the list for a while.  I actually do like yoga and running, but I've had a foot issue plaguing me for several months that has dampened my enthusiasm quite a bit.  To try to get my mojo back for exercise, I decided to make myself some new workout clothes.  So, I ordered two Kwik Sew patterns during their last sale- 4163 and 4181. I had three pieces of nylon/lycra knits- one coral, one printed, and one black.  I had ordered 1-1/2 yds of the coral and the print, and just one yard of the black.

Let's start with Kwik Sew 4163.  Although I loved the end results, I did find some problems with the pattern.  First of all- the shorts on the model look like a great length, right?  On me, they were obscenely short- like bathing suit short.  So, those were a wadder.  Fortunately, I had enough fabric to try again.  So, I made the pants- not wanting full length ones, I trimmed 7 inches off of the length, and they hit me right at the knee.  I'm guessing that if I made the full length ones, that they would also not be as long as the ones in the cover photo.  The fit was generous, and I ended up sizing down about two sizes to get that snug ready-to-wear fit.

I had a little left of the black knit, and  made them into a solid pair that were 6" longer than the shorts cutting line.  These hit me at about mid thigh.  So, if you are making the shorts/pants- measure a pair of shorts or pants that you like, and then adjust as needed.  I am tall, so it might be just me, but I would be careful!


Next the top, the fit on the top was perfect, except for one thing- the neckband was too long.  It wouldn't lay flat, and since I had serged it, so there was no ripping it out.  I decided to get rid of the excess by making a little v-neck fold at the center front.  I love the back detail.

Next time I make this, I'll cut the band about an inch shorter.  I do love everything else about it!  Next up was Kwik Sew 4181. 
This one went perfectly.  The little V in the front is just an applique, so it's not complicated at all.  Since I made this after the first pattern with the band length problem, I cut the bands an inch shorter and they were perfect.   I did not use the shelf bra piece, as I plan on wearing a real sports bra. 

The only thing that I would change is that I chose to use contrasting thread for the hem, and I don't like it.  I thought it would tie in the black inset, but it is just a little too messy.  Next time, I'd use a thread the same color.


Again, the back view is really cute, and this time I made sure to center the chevron.  I still have a lot of fabric left of the print and the coral, and will probably make a zippered jacket to wear over these when it's a little chillier out. When you are mixing like this, a little fabric goes a long way!  I think that you can actually save money sewing your own workout wear because it takes so little fabric.

So, now I'm all set- gym membership, cute workout clothes- now no more excuses! Just do it!

Happy Sewing!

Ann

Sew, what's new? Patterns, Ann's projects and more!