Sewing Classes and Lessons

Monday, September 6, 2010

Pushing my limits- Vogue 1154

My niece got married this past weekend, and I wanted to make a festive dress for the occasion.  I decided on  this Vogue pattern 1154 by Badgley Mischka thinking that it looked like a fairly easy project.  Hahaha!  In my nearly 40 years of sewing, this was my most difficult project to date.

When I opened up the instructions, I was a little overwhelmed.  Thirty pattern pieces and 88 steps!  Should I turn back at this point?  Of course not, I won't let any pattern intimidate me!

The jacket was no problem- it is lined, but I'm used to that.  The dress on the other hand.....The dress has a full boned  foundation, a lining, and an interfaced interior lining as well- 8 layers of fabric and interfacing for the bodice.  I eliminated the interfaced interior lining, but the rest of the layers really do need to be there.


I had chosen a stretch cotton brocade for the outer fabric. The pattern called for china silk for the lining and the foundation layers, but I was afraid it might be 95 degrees at the wedding, and the china silk might be too hot.  So, I used cotton voile instead.  I really liked the pleated bodice.  You can see it more clearly here without the jacket.  And the back pleats mirror the front pleats.  What is with those tan lines (shaking head).



The top picture is what the foundation layer looks like with the sewn in interfacing and boning.  The second picture is the foundation completed with the facing and the ribbon hangers.  This is then sewn to the dress body.

The original design has one set of pleats that overlap another in the skirt- creating more bulk at the tummy area which did me no favors. So I redrafted the skirt to just have two sets of small pleats that didn't overlap.  I also added two inches to the length, but those were the only changes I made.


I had some problems tweaking the fit.  Once the foundation is in place, this dress will stand up by itself, and even though I had thought the muslin had fit, the final bodice ended up standing about 1/2 inch away from my body- just enough that someone taller than myself could have a nice view of my strapless bra, if they so wished.  I had to rip through all of those layers and took it in on the side seams enough to get it to hug my chest.  

I alternated between thinking this pattern was totally crazy, and realizing how much I was learning in the process.  I wouldn't want to sew something like this everyday, but it's a pretty sweet dress, if I do say so myself.   I had no problems with it slipping down at the wedding, which was my fear.  It was comfortable and secure.  This dress cost very little in supplies, but a lot in time.  In the end, I think it was definitely a good investment in my sewing education, all 88 steps!

15 comments:

  1. Oh, what a magnificent dress. I'm in awe of your having mastered all 88 steps, including the boning! Plus, that is absolutely the perfect shade of pink on you. Great job! Cindy

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  2. Wow that is one stunning outfit, I have bought if myself for a wedding next year but I do think I'm in oer my head. Did you change the jacket at all ? it looks slightly different near the neck ( and nicer I must say )

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  3. I have this pattern. I am stashing for a potential 'Wedding after the Marriage' ceremony for my husband and I. It is right now at the top of the list of about 6.

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  4. Lisa,
    When I first tried on the jacket, it looked more like a bullfighter's jacket, with the cap sleeves very pronounced and a couple of inches away from my arms. So, I took it in a couple of sizes on the side seams and the cap sleeves. The pattern cover shows it much higher on the model's neck, which maybe it would have been had I cut a smaller size to begin with.

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  5. Scheryka,
    I think it would be a great choice for your ceremony!

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  6. Ah Ann that makes sense then , your version of the jacket is much nicer for sure.

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  7. WOW, that is gorgeous and a job well done. I'm impressed with your perseverance - bravo!

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  8. That dress is gorgeous! Well worth the time you invested in it.
    ~Kimberlee
    www.TheSpunkyDiva.blogspot.com

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  9. I'm new to the world of sewing blogs and pattern review (sort of)... but I found your blog through links among links! :)

    Your dress is incredible. You look like a princess - it fits so nicely. A job well done! (if an advanced beginner can compliment you?!) :)

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  10. Tawnya,
    Welcome to the world of sewing blogs and pattern review! And yes, thank you for the compliment!

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  11. Beautiful! Fantastic job & continuing to increase your skills. Wow!

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  12. What great outfits. Very beautiful. Awsome!

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  13. Just love the brilliant colors and fabric choices! Beautiful projects!

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  14. what a wonderful dress and congratulations to you ! I am going to try it for a wedding (next year!) I will need all the time in the world to master this. Your tips are extremely helpful. thank you

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  15. I was just about to buy this pattern. Thanks so much for this wonderful post :)
    http://sewingyourstyle.tumblr.com

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